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Lavender silk skirt and underbust. - Melodramatic, corsetted mistress of the obscure
March 2nd, 2006
08:36 pm

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Lavender silk skirt and underbust.
This started with the skirt. Then I had to decide what I planned to wear WITH it. I had been playing around with altering the Laughing Moon Silverado to fit me, but failed rather sadly when it came to fitting the bust. (Even posted about it a few months ago.) The thought finally occurred to me that the pattern, as I had it, fit rather nicely up to the bust - why not just leave off the bust? Thus the plan for this underbust was born. I was delighted to find that I had enough of the proper sized scraps of the silk left to make the underbust, too. Lovely!

There are two "B" gores at each hip, the busk is 12", there are four 1/2" bones (around the grommets) and I have 20 1/4" bones around the rest. Although I didn't need them for bust support anymore, I still put three bones in each side-bust panel. In only one set of panels did I forget to take the layers apart before sewing the boning tape to the coutil, so most of the bones are not obvious.

The measurements while laying flat are:
Underbust: 31"
Waist: 26"
Hips: 38"
Waist to underbust: 5"


I put these on hastily, so the lacing is uneven and the skirt isn't completely square. But then, perhaps I just had it pulled too tight. Also, I KNOW this was cut out precisely on grain (it's rather easy if you happen to draw a line along a twill change, then lay the pattern piece over that, with the grain line right over the drawn line, right?) but the busk twists anyway. I guess that means my body is the problem. Phooey.

From the front


From the back

(29 comments | Leave a comment)

Comments
 
[User Picture]
From:starseeking
Date:March 3rd, 2006 02:51 am (UTC)
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ooooh purdy!
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 04:11 am (UTC)
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Thank you. :)
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From:apocalypticbob
Date:March 3rd, 2006 03:24 am (UTC)
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Hmm...I see what you mean about the busk...did you lace yourself in? Sometimes I manage to twist the busk more if I'm lacing myself than if someone else laces me.

The fabric is lovely...looks so Victorian dolly. I love the longer hipline and the cut of the top of this corset...very pretty!
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 04:12 am (UTC)
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I did all but the last tightening myself, yes. Who knows. I have had too many corsets twist on me to one degree or another to blame it on that, though. I think my body is just uneven.

Thank you! :)
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From:apocalypticbob
Date:March 3rd, 2006 03:28 am (UTC)
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By the way, do you ever do commission corsets? Just curious...
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 04:09 am (UTC)
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Only informally. I have made what are essentially gifts of my time. Today I have agreed to make a corset for a friend for a fee beyond materials which is a first for me.
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From:apocalypticbob
Date:March 3rd, 2006 04:18 am (UTC)
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We may have to talk...if you ever feel like taking on a commission, that is, and after I get my tax refund back.

*grins*
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 04:18 am (UTC)
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Wahahahahah, I have gotten so used to seeing laracorsets using that icon, I didn't even look at the name!.
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From:walsfeo
Date:March 3rd, 2006 06:39 am (UTC)
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um, WOW.
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 02:31 pm (UTC)
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Thanks. :D
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From:jimmy_hollaman
Date:March 3rd, 2006 01:19 pm (UTC)
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i think it looks great, as for the thought that your body is the problem... i don't believe it. i have never had any problems with your body....
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 02:31 pm (UTC)
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Thanks, you sweet-talker, you. :D
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From:the_geoffrey
Date:March 3rd, 2006 02:53 pm (UTC)

Ummm ... technical stuff, yeah.

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I saw you in that, live, and as God is my witness, I wasn't thinking of the costuming irregularities.
I've been a member of the ICG for almost 15 years, but I've been male for far longer.
Outfit works, hon.
I, too, would like to discuss commissioning a corset with you, right after I fix this leak in my wallet.
And ANYTIME that you need validating on a more, umm, personal level, well, umm, *blush* *toeground* ...
[User Picture]
From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 06:42 pm (UTC)

Re: Ummm ... technical stuff, yeah.

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Hee! Thanks. :D
(Deleted comment)
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 06:42 pm (UTC)
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Thank you! :D
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From:electron_pusher
Date:March 3rd, 2006 03:21 pm (UTC)
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"I guess that means my body is the problem. Phooey."

Um, maybe I'm blind, but I don't see anything wrong with that pretty body of yours :)

(it looks great on you too)
[User Picture]
From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 06:42 pm (UTC)
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Thank you!
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From:themadblonde
Date:March 3rd, 2006 05:01 pm (UTC)

two words for you....

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hubba...


hubba...

;-)
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 06:42 pm (UTC)

Re: two words for you....

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Thank you, too! :D
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From:bradhicks
Date:March 3rd, 2006 07:56 pm (UTC)
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I put the requisite effort into staring at the artwork (instead of the pretty girl) to reconstruct the geometry, and I don't think it's the garment or the body: it's a lacing problem. I think what you're talking about is that in picture #1, the bottom of the corset is twisted slightly out of vertical line, towards your left side?

Consider the back of the corset, in picture 2, as a geometry problem; simplify it down to the boning on either edge, with your spine between. The right side is fairly close to vertical. Your spine is reasonably close to vertical. The left side starts out vertical from the top, but about halfway down begins its pull towards the center, and at the bottom is exactly as far off the vertical line, on the left, and in the same direction, as the apparent twist on the front.

The flaw is subtle and I guarantee you that nobody but you, and at most maybe phierma and cos_x because of his famous nitpickiness and her insufficiently-appreciated skill as a pattern maker and draper, would have been able to see it on any but the closest inspection. No more time than you probably put into those laces, they're perfectly good enough. If you'd been feeling Phierma-level obsessive with costuming to the 6mm rule (wry grin), you could have gotten any of us with Masquerade backstage "den mom" experience to true the laces for you. But trust me, you were a knockout, and I'm reasonably sure that there's nothing wrong with the garment.
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 08:37 pm (UTC)
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Just for background, I have had at least one corset mock-up where it really was the FABRIC - I grasped the grommet edges of the corset at the waist (solid front) and PULLED and watched the center front slant. That was most distressing. This one I hooked the busk, grasped the grommet edges at the waist, and PULLED and the busk stayed vertical.

Okay, not the fabric. I put the two halves of the corset together to see if one is longer than the other, or some such. No such luck - they are pretty close to identical. So, it's not the construction, per se.

As for the bones in the back, they are actually curving which is a failure on my part to get the corset just right. The hips are bigger in relation to the body they encompass than, say, the waist or the ribcage and, under the same tension as the other two, the edges come closer together. (Now, granted, that's at least partly on purpose, because the hips and the ribcage don't compress and the waist will - so, if you can't compress the hips or ribcage anymore, you can't compress the waist any farther, either.) The right side edge is hard to see past the laces, however.

That leaves only my body as the culprit, you know?

I think mrpet here has the right of it. Granted, it looks like I am hip-shot in the pics (although I thought I kept both legs straight, habits are hard to avoid) so any unevenness in the waist could be attributed to that, I have often thought one leg was shorter than the other just from the way I walk.


But, yeah, I am otherwise quite happy with the result. Thanks. :D
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From:kd0r
Date:March 3rd, 2006 09:29 pm (UTC)
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Nice Bust, er busk, er underbust. Oh never mind I seem to be distracted!
;-)
David
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From:solan_t
Date:March 3rd, 2006 09:36 pm (UTC)
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LOL. Thanks. :D
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From:solan_t
Date:March 4th, 2006 03:51 am (UTC)
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Thank you! :D
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From:emessar
Date:March 4th, 2006 05:19 am (UTC)
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Gill
"And what do we say when we see a cute girl?"

son
"Hubba Hubba."

Gill
"That's right"

- from Parenthood w/ Steve Martin .... it seemed appropriate ...
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From:solan_t
Date:March 4th, 2006 02:52 pm (UTC)
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Thank you. :)
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From:morgaath
Date:March 4th, 2006 05:20 am (UTC)
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OK so this is a trick question, right? I am to find the flaw in that which is flawless.
If you zoom in close enough even a perfectly flat surface has bumps.
And you are not perfectly flat. You have nice bumps in nice places.
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From:solan_t
Date:March 4th, 2006 02:52 pm (UTC)
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*blush* Thank you. :D
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